Gold karat stamps on Hawaiian jewelry: what 14K, 585 and GF mean

Gold jewelry sold in the US is usually stamped with its karat, 10K, 14K or 18K, or the matching parts-per-thousand mark 417, 585 or 750. Under the National Gold and Silver Stamping Act, whoever applies that quality mark must also stamp their registered trademark or name on the piece, and the gold content may fall short of the stamp by no more than 3 parts per thousand. Marks such as GF, GP, RGP, HGE and vermeil mean a layer of gold over another metal, not solid gold. Most Hawaiian heirloom pieces are 14k, and the most useful number to ask for after the karat is the weight in grams.

What the stamps mean

Stamp	What it is	Gold content
10K, 10KT, 417	10 karat gold	10 parts in 24, about 41.7%
14K, 14KT, 585	14 karat gold	14 parts in 24, about 58.3% (585 is the mark used for it)
18K, 18KT, 750	18 karat gold	18 parts in 24, 75%
22K, 916	22 karat gold	about 91.6%
925, Sterling, Ster.	Sterling silver	at least 92.5% silver, no gold
1/20 12K GF, 14/20 GF	Gold-filled	a karat gold layer of at least 1/20 of the metal weight, over base metal
RGP, 1/40 10K RGP	Rolled gold plate	the same construction with a thinner gold layer
GE, GEP	Gold electroplate	at least 0.175 microns of 10k or better gold
HGE	Heavy gold electroplate	at least about 2.5 microns of 10k or better gold
Vermeil	Gold over sterling silver	at least 2.5 microns of 10k or better gold on a sterling base
GP	Gold plate	a thin gold layer; ask what is underneath

With gold-filled and plated marks, the karat number describes only the outer layer. “14K HGE” is plated base metal, not 14k gold.

What US law requires of a stamp

The US has no government assay office and no compulsory hallmarking. A stamp is the claim of whoever made or imported the piece. Three sets of rules keep that claim honest.

The National Gold and Silver Stamping Act (15 U.S.C. §§291–300) sets how close the metal must be to the stamp. Since its 1976 amendment, gold may fall short of the stamped fineness by no more than 3 parts per thousand when a part without solder is tested, or 7 parts per thousand when the whole piece is tested with its solder. A 14K piece tested on its own metal should therefore assay at about 580 or better.

The trademark rule. Section 297 of the same Act requires anyone who applies a gold or silver quality mark, or imports a piece bearing one, to apply their registered trademark or name as well. That is why a reputable stamp has two parts: the karat, and a maker’s mark. The maker’s mark is how you trace a piece to a workshop, which also helps when you’re checking whether it was made in Hawaiʻi.

The FTC Jewelry Guides (16 CFR Part 23) say how gold may be described in selling. Section 23.3 calls it misleading to describe something as “gold” without qualification unless it is 24 karat throughout, which is why the karat must be stated. It also covers plating thickness and filled gold. The 2018 revision removed the old advice against calling alloys below 10 karat “gold”, provided the karat is disclosed just as clearly. The Guides also treat it as deceptive to misstate a piece’s metal content or weight, which covers calling a hollow piece solid.

Why 14k is the standard for heirloom bracelets

An heirloom bangle is worn every day for decades and carries engraving that should stay sharp. Our guide to Hawaiian bracelets covers widths and styles. 14k gold is a little over half gold, and the rest is alloy, mainly silver and copper, which makes it harder than 18k. At the bench we see 14k hold crisp scroll and resist dents better, and it costs less per gram. 18k gives a richer yellow and holds more gold, but it scratches and dents more easily, so its engraving softens sooner. 10k is the hardest and cheapest of the three, and paler in color.

Almost every gold piece in our October 2026 price survey was 14k. Our Hawaiian jewelry price guide shows the ranges.

Solid or hollow

A hollow bangle or ring is formed from thin sheet around an empty core. From the front it can look as generous as a solid piece while using a fraction of the gold. It costs less, but it dents, it wears through at the edges, and it can’t be deeply engraved, recut or resized much. Signs of a hollow piece:

• it feels light for its width;
• the inside has a seam, or a tiny vent hole;
• it sounds tinny when tapped with a fingernail;
• the engraving is shallow or pressed in, with soft edges.

Hollow pieces are legitimate at their price. The problem is only a hollow piece described or priced as solid.

Ask for the weight in grams

Weight is the fairest single number for comparing gold jewelry. Ask: “What does this weigh in grams, in my size and width?” A seller who makes pieces by weight will know, or will put it on the scale in front of you.

To compare, multiply the weight by the gold fraction: 20 grams of 14k contains about 20 × 0.585, or 11.7 grams, of pure gold. Two pieces of the same karat and similar weight contain about the same gold; what’s left of the price difference pays for the work, the engraving and the service. In our survey, 8 mm wide 14k bracelets ranged from about $2,390 to about $8,990, and much of that spread is weight.

How to check a stamp with a loupe

A 10x jeweler’s loupe costs little and is the tool every jeweler uses. Hold it close to your eye, bring the piece up until it’s sharp, and work near a window or a bright lamp.

1. Find the marks. On a ring, inside the band. On a bangle, inside, often opposite the name or beside the hinge or clasp. On a pendant, on the back or on the bail.
2. Read both parts. You want a karat (14K or 585) and a maker’s mark beside it. The marks may be struck with a punch or laser-engraved; both are normal.
3. Check the stamp is crisp and sits flat in the surface. A stamp on a separate tag or plate soldered to a base-metal piece is a warning sign.
4. Look for wear at high points and edges. On plated pieces a different color shows through where the plating has worn, most often at edges and on the inside of rings.
5. Read every letter. “14K” followed by GF, GP, HGE, RGP or EP is not solid gold.

A loupe confirms what the stamp says, not what the metal is. If the price is high and you’re unsure, a jeweler can test the metal with an acid test or an X-ray fluorescence reader. A magnet only helps rule things out: gold isn’t magnetic, but neither are brass and many other base metals.

What to ask the seller

• What karat is it, and where is the stamp?
• Whose maker’s mark is this?
• Is it solid or hollow?
• What does it weigh in grams, in my size?
• Can you write the karat and weight on the receipt?

Red flags

• “Gold”, “gold tone” or “gold color” with no karat.
• A karat stamp with no maker’s mark, or a mark the seller can’t identify.
• A karat number followed by GF, GP, HGE or RGP, sold as if it were solid.
• A hand-engraving price on a piece with soft, repeating cast scroll. Our guide to hand-engraved and machine-engraved jewelry shows how to check.
• A wide piece that weighs very little, described as solid.
• A refusal to weigh the piece or to put the karat on the receipt.