Hawaiian earrings: styles, metals and what to look for

Hawaiian earrings are gold earrings that carry the look of the heirloom bracelet: hand-engraved scroll, or island motifs such as plumeria, maile and honu, in a small stud, an engraved hoop or a short drop. We do not make earrings yet, but we know what goes into them, so this page explains the styles and what to check before you buy a pair from anyone. The points that matter most are the karat of the gold, what the post is made of, how the engraving was done, and whether the pair is solid gold or plated.

Where the style comes from

Hawaiian heirloom jewelry began with engraved gold bracelets in the Victorian style, worn by Hawaiian royalty in the 1860s. Earrings came later, taking the same scrollwork and flowers into a smaller form. Our guide to Hawaiian heirloom jewelry tells that history with sources.

The main styles

Studs. A small motif on a post, most often a plumeria flower or a honu, sometimes a scroll-engraved disc or heart. Studs are the everyday choice and the usual first pair for a child.

Hoops. A domed gold hoop engraved with scroll or maile all the way round, like a small heirloom bangle. Hoops are described by their diameter and the width of the band; a few millimetres of width is enough to show the engraving.

Drops. A motif or tag hanging from a hook or lever-back, so it moves when you do. Drops show more of the engraving than a stud, and they are often made to match a pendant.

Motifs. Plumeria is by far the most common on earrings, because its five petals read clearly at small sizes. Maile and scroll suit hoops. Our guide to symbols and meanings explains what each one stands for.

Metals. 14k yellow gold is the traditional choice, with white and rose gold common. Silver and plated versions are widely sold as well, at a much lower price and with a shorter life.

How to choose

Size and weight. Earrings need no body size, but they do need to suit the ear. A heavy drop pulls on the lobe over a day. If the wearer is not used to earrings, start small.

Posts and backs. Check what the post is made of and how the earring fastens. Push backs are the most common; screw backs and lever-backs are more secure. For a child or a valuable pair, a more secure back is worth asking for.

Sensitive ears. Nickel is the most common cause of jewelry allergy, and earrings are a frequent source. Solid gold is usually tolerated well, but gold alloys contain other metals, and some white gold uses nickel. If the wearer reacts to jewelry, ask what the alloy and the post are made of.

Matching a set. Earrings are often bought to go with a bracelet or pendant. Matching the karat and colour of gold matters more than matching the motif exactly.

Price. Size, karat and whether the earrings are solid or hollow decide most of the cost. Our guide to what Hawaiian jewelry costs explains the rest.

Quality checks before you buy

• Karat stamp. Look for 14K, 585 or similar on the post or the back of each earring. In the US, a quality stamp is meant to sit next to the maker’s name or trademark.
• Plated or filled. “Gold plated”, “gold filled”, “gold tone” and “gold over silver” mean a thin gold layer, or just a colour, over another metal. They are not solid gold, and plating wears through on posts and hoops.
• Solid or hollow. Many larger hoops are hollow to keep them light. That is fine if it is stated and priced as such, but hollow hoops dent more easily, and under the FTC’s Jewelry Guides they should not be called solid.
• Weight. Ask for the gram weight of the pair. It is the fairest way to compare two listings.
• Hand or machine engraving. Hand-cut lines are bright, slightly varied and deep. Stamped and machine-engraved earrings have shallow, identical lines.
• Where they were made. Earrings sold as “made in Hawaii” in the state must be made there with most of their value added there. Ask where they were cut and engraved.

Care

Take earrings out for swimming, sleep and exercise. Clean the posts regularly with warm water and mild soap, dry them well, and store each pair together so a single earring is not lost. Our care guide has more.

What we make

We do not make earrings at the moment. Everything we make is engraved by hand at our bench in Hawaiʻi and made to order, and for now that means bracelets, rings, pendants and wedding bands. If you want something to wear with earrings you already own, the Heirloom Pendant in 12 mm is the closest in scale, with plumeria, honu or a scroll heart in 14k yellow, white or rose gold.

If you would like earrings to match a piece of ours, book a consultation and tell us what you have in mind. We would rather say plainly what we can and cannot make than promise a pair we have not made before.