Koa wood and shell inlay: care and what to expect

Koa and shell inlays are natural materials, so they need a little more care than solid gold and they will change slightly with wear. Take an inlay ring off for swimming, bathing, washing up, exercise and sleep; keep it away from perfume, lotion and cleaning products; and clean it only with a soft dry cloth, never in an ultrasonic cleaner or chemical dip. Expect the wood’s colour to deepen gently over time and the surface to soften from high gloss to a warmer sheen. Every piece of koa has its own grain, so your ring will not look exactly like the photographs, and that is part of what makes it yours.

About koa

Koa (Acacia koa) grows only in Hawaiʻi. It is the largest native tree in the islands and has been prized for generations for canoes, furniture and instruments. The wood ranges from pale gold to deep reddish brown and even purple tones, and some boards have curly or wavy grain that shimmers as the light moves across it.

We cut the koa for our Koa Inlay Ring and Koa Inlay Wedding Band from responsibly sourced wood, set it into a channel between two gold rails, and seal it.

What to expect from natural wood

No two rings match. Even two rings cut from the same board differ. Grain lines, colour and figure are different on every piece. When you order a pair of koa wedding bands, we match the grain as closely as we can, but they will not be identical.

The colour deepens. Like most woods, koa tends to darken and warm with light and time. The change is gradual and even.

The finish softens. The sealed surface starts glossy. With daily wear it settles to a softer sheen, especially on the high points.

Small marks are normal. Wood is softer than gold. A knock against a hard surface can leave a small dent in the inlay that would only scratch the metal.

What to expect from shell

Shell inlay, such as mother-of-pearl or abalone, shows colour that shifts as you turn it, and like wood it is different in every piece. Shell is mostly calcium carbonate, the same mineral as chalk and limestone, so acids in perfume, lotion, citrus juice and household cleaners can etch it and dull its shine. It is hard but brittle, so a sharp knock can chip it.

Our current inlay pieces use koa. We have included shell here because the same care applies and because many people wear older shell pieces alongside new ones.

Daily care

• Take it off for water. Swimming (salt water and chlorine), bathing, washing dishes and long soaks in hand-washing are the main cause of dull or lifted inlay.
• Put it on last. Apply perfume, sunscreen and lotion first, let them dry, then put your ring on.
• Take it off for hard work. Gardening, the gym, moving furniture and anything that grips metal against wood.
• Wipe it with a soft dry cloth. That is all the cleaning wood and shell need. For the gold rails, a dry polishing cloth is enough; do not let it rub chemicals into the inlay.
• No ultrasonic cleaners, steamers or dips. They can loosen inlay and strip the seal.
• Store it on its own in a soft pouch, so other pieces do not scratch it.

The full guidance is in our product care & warranty page.

Resizing an inlay ring

A ring with an inlay cannot be stretched or compressed much without cracking the wood. Our koa inlay rings can be adjusted by up to half a size, so please measure carefully. Our guide to finding your ring size explains how, and we confirm the size in your proof before we cut anything.

If something goes wrong

Our workmanship warranty covers structural defects, including inlay that comes loose under normal wear. It does not cover normal wear, scratches, or damage from impact or chemicals. If you are not sure which applies, email us photos; we are happy to quote repairs for any piece we made. See our returns, exchanges & repairs policy.