Maile jewelry: meaning, styles and what to look for

Maile jewelry carries the maile vine, a native Hawaiian plant whose glossy, fragrant leaves are twisted into an open-ended lei worn at weddings, graduations and other important moments. On jewelry it is cut as a band of paired leaves running all the way around a ring or bracelet, which is why it is the most traditional design for a Hawaiian wedding band. It stands for honour, respect and the bond between two people.

The plant

Maile (Alyxia stellata, also listed under the name Alyxia oliviformis in older Hawaiian references) is a native vine or sprawling shrub of Hawaiʻi’s forests. Its leaves are small, glossy and pointed, and its bark carries a sweet scent that some compare to vanilla. To make a lei maile, the lei maker strips the woody core from the stems and twists the leafy strands together, leaving the ends open so the lei hangs straight down on either side of the neck rather than closing in a circle.

Maile in Hawaiian tradition

Maile has deep roots in hula. It is counted among the kinolau, the physical forms, of Laka, the deity of hula, and it is one of the plants traditionally placed on the kuahu, the hula altar. It is also linked in moʻolelo (stories) with courtship and romance.

Today lei maile is the lei most associated with weddings in Hawaiʻi. The groom very often wears it, and many couples both do, sometimes with a flower lei twisted in. It is also given at graduations, anniversaries and to honour someone at a public occasion. Wild maile has become harder to find, so a full lei maile is a significant gift in itself.

Why maile suits rings and bracelets

A repeating line of leaves has no front or back, so a maile band looks right however it turns on the finger. It also reads well at very small widths, which suits narrow wedding bands. There is a quiet difference from the real lei: the lei is open at the ends, while a ring is a closed circle, so the engraver has to bring the leaf pattern around to meet itself. Where and how the pattern meets is one of the best signs of careful work.

Common styles

• Engraved bands. Paired leaves cut into a domed or flat band, often with a plain or scroll border at each edge. This is the classic maile wedding band.
• Matching pairs. Two bands of different widths, cut with the same leaf so they look like a set.
• Bracelets. The same leaf pattern around a bangle, sometimes broken by a name across the front.
• Pierced or cut-out maile. The leaves cut through the metal so light shows between them. This is lighter and more delicate than an engraved band.
• With koa. Maile on gold rails either side of a koa wood inlay.

Gold maile bands are usually 14k in yellow, white or rose; silver versions are sterling (925).

What to look for when buying

The join. Look at where the leaves meet. On good hand work the pattern meets cleanly, with no squeezed or stretched leaf at the seam.

Leaf scale. On a narrow band, leaves cut too small blur into texture. On a pair, check that the leaves are scaled to each width.

Hand or machine engraving. Hand-cut leaves have bright, faceted cuts and small variations; machine or cast patterns repeat exactly and have softer edges.

Solid or hollow, and weight. A wedding band is worn every day for decades. Solid bands can be resized and, if the metal is thick enough, re-engraved; hollow bands cannot. Ask for the weight in grams. A comfort-fit inside is worth having; see our comfort fit guide.

Karat stamps. Look for 14K or 585, 10K or 417, 18K or 750, or 925 for sterling. GP, GF and HGE mean plated or gold filled.

Made in Hawaiʻi or imported. Under Hawaiʻi law, “made in Hawaii” requires at least 51 percent of the wholesale value to be added in the state. Ask where the band was formed and where it was engraved.

Our guide to Hawaiian jewelry prices explains how width, weight and handwork affect cost.

Care

Wash gold in warm water with a little mild dish soap and a soft toothbrush, then rinse and dry. Take your band off for pools, hot tubs, the gym and heavy work. Engraved leaves soften gradually with years of wear, which is normal; a hand engraver can often sharpen them again if there is enough metal. White gold may need replating every few years.

How we make maile

Maile is the design on our Maile Wedding Band, and you can choose it on the Koa Inlay Wedding Band, Koa Inlay Ring, Heirloom Scroll Ring and Heirloom Scroll Bracelet. Each is made to order in 14k yellow, white or rose gold, and we send a proof of size, width, metal and engraving before we cut. The size guide and engraving guide will help you get both right.